Masa's


My old college pal, "D.A", in town for a job interview, requested that we spend an evening at any one of SF's tonier eating establishments. Masa's seemed an appropriate choice, as I had not eaten there since Ron Seigel (famous for winning a unanimous decision against Iron Chef French) took control of the kitchen.

All ratings are based on the Pudaite scale (-10 to +10).

Amuse Geule: Chilled Corn Soup      +5
Delicious, but too viscous. Much of the soup was left behind, as neither spoons nor bendy straws were provided.


Amuse Geule: Ahi Carpaccio
    with Heirloom Tomato and Mango		      +4
King Salmon Tartare
    with Osetra Caviar, Lemon Creme Fraiche, Toasted Brioche 		      +5
Superbly prepared, no novelty.

Minor complaint: when a tasting menu contains multiple fish courses, I prefer at least one to be cooked (and at least one to be raw).


Maine Lobster
    with Summer Vegetables, Lobster Broth		      +6
Like the salmon, nothing new, but still excellent.


Squab Breast
    with Squab Liver Mousse, Brussel Sprouts, Applewood Smoked Bacon 		      +3
The squab, otherwise succulent, was tainted by the synthetic-tasting bacon strip and chalky liver mousse which, as it softened and ran, took on an intriguing scatological appearance.


Beef Rib Eye
    with Leek and Corn Risotto, Bone Marrow, Bordelaise		      +2
My jaw may have been tired by this point, as the steak offered a challenging chew. Even aside from that, its flavor was inferior to ribeyes I've had from Cattlemen's and Black Angus. The bone marrow and bordelaise, impossibly indulgent. Risotto, passable.


Lime and Cilantro Sorbet
    with Chilled Watermelon Soup		      +4
Pineapple Sorbet
    with Coconut Milk Tapioca		      +6
Raspberry Mille Feuille
    with Citrus Sorbet		      +7
Best puff I've ever had. The sherbet packed a Starbursty wallop.


Mignardises      +3
The breadth of kibble selection was impressive, but its quality fell far short of the xox truffles waiting for us in the car.



So, the dinner was merely good, and I was disappointed. Enough so that I may retire my restaurant trip report writing.

(The biggest victim of this decision may be D.A., as I don't feel as inspired to publicize his antics as I would have been in the past. Let's just say that I may no longer be welcome at either Cesar or Dona Tomas.)

My utility for wallet-gutting tasting menus has dwindled to a point where I can't justify them. Meg's recent kaiseki report sounded promising, however, so maybe I'll give that a shot. (Any and all kaiseki recommendations welcome.) And I'd still happily eat at Aqua or Gary Danko, and I still want to try Babbo and El Bulli. And I may yet revert. In the meantime, check out this bonus trip report.



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